Seasonal beauty on Road 132 from Perce, QC to the NB border. New Brunswick to Maine: In Campbelton, quaint bilingual border town, I heard local stories at the cozy Super 8 spa. Crossing the border at Van Buren was a bit challenging. I rounded up the day with a seafood meal in Machias, ME, and the Bluebird Motel.
The Cadillac Among Mountains
Climbing Mount Cadillac
At the Summit
Cadillac Mountain South Ridge Trail
Gloom in paradise; The trail – making friends; Training the brain; Conquering the summit; Crowds and cruise ships; Super ecological campground
5.10.2016
Gloom in Paradise
For some reason here, in the famous Acadia, the must-see national park in Maine, I seem to lose my enthusiasm, my zest. Is it perhaps because instead of “end of worlds” I am right in the "middle"? Or has my ability to “digest” another lake or another spectacular scenery diminished?
I feel gloomy this morning. Perhaps it was the unwelcoming attitude of the rangers yesterday. Or the glitz and “too muchness” of the crowds, even off- season… For some reason here, in the famous Acadia, the must- see national park in Maine, I seem to lose my enthusiasm, my zest. Is it because instead of “end of worlds” I am right in the “middle”? Or has my ability to “digest” another lake or another spectacular scenery diminished? Maybe it is just that the lowered temperatures take the fun out of camping?
Today I intend to climb Mount Cadillac. My knee is a bit problematic from driving. But, as the Jewish saying goes: “The evening is shrouded in sadness, but joy burst forth in the morning”?
I bought the detailed semi topographic map of Acadia at the booth for 5$ . The altitude lines of the Cadillac Mountain South Ridge Trail were nicely spaced, meaning it was moderately sloped … With that, I knew I was indeed going to do it.
And I did. I learned again how trying for something challenging and succeeding to do it builds up my confidence and makes me feel good about myself and the world. The other thing I learned again was what wonderful people you can meet while hiking, once you get away from the crowds.
I learned again how trying for something challenging and succeeding to do it builds up my confidence and makes me feel good about myself and the world.
Cadillac Mountain South Ridge Trail - Making Friends
So, as planned, I got up early enough and drove on #3, but where I thought the trailhead should be, no cars were parked. It was just too early, but I thought I might have equivocated, having a very low trust in my own navigation skills. After some shuffling back and forth I eventually came back to the same spot, but by now several cars were parked there. Some people got out of one of the cars, and quickly and effortlessly shot up the stairs on one side of the road, indicating the direction to the mountain.
I, of course, took another ten minutes to get myself ready. As usual I over-equipped myself, preparing for all kinds of possible weather conditions, stocking up on food and water. Seeking to minimize their use to steep slippery slopes, I packed my shoes in the backpack, wearing my “breathable” sandals in the meantime.
At the beginning of the forest trail leading to the mountain, an older man crossed my path running. He was getting back to the parking to bring food for his wife.
I always panic that I might lose the road, but it was fairly clear. As the day wore on, more and more young couples passed me by, as well as some older ones. At some point before the forest gave in to the rocky part, I met the older couple as they were taking a break – the man who overtook me before and his beautiful wife. I was amazed she said they both retired about a year ago at 67 – she looked so gorgeous and young, and her hair was not white, but natural blond and tied up girl-like in a ponytail.
I joined them as we all walked approximately at the same pace, which was very convenient for me. A few hours with them were sufficient for me to tell this was one of the best couples I met in my life. They treated each other with uttermost respect and an easy flow of loving energy. No underhanded comments, no double talk. They were married 49 years, betrothed at 19…
Yes, she said, life had ups and downs, but you could see this was a marriage made in heaven. Everything was open, relaxed and flowing.
Cadillac Mountain South Ridge Trail - Training the Brain
They had 3 children, 2 grandchildren.
Their son, a professor in brain research, told them that walking on uneven terrain is good exercise for the brain. I knew it was good exercise for the knees, but could understand why he made that claim as well. You, indeed, have to constantly gauge how and where you put your foot. You exercise balance and estimate distances for each step. I believe that body and mind are one whole anyway, and that intelligence is spread all over our bodies. The peripheral nervous system, as well as each and every cell in the body, are all intelligent. That knowledge therefore did not suprise me, but was a nice verification for how I see things.
S. used to work in a communication company and D. had a medium size business. When they retired, they bought an RV, and now they travel around America. Canada was not in the plans, but Mexico was, as well as Alaska. We had a little rap about French Canadians. They knew some in person and said their impression was that they were not a happy people, that they had this sense of persecution. When people are happy, you feel it in their auras.
The couple turned vegetarian recently and the three of us shared some food as well as world views, as we were seated on the rocks. In Mexico they planned to go to an island in the Yucatan where I used to live to escape the winter, and in Alaska they will visit friends in the summer. They had been to several parks in the Canadian Rockies in the past. I hoped they enjoyed my company as I enjoyed theirs.
Cadillac Mountain South Ridge Trail - Conquering the Summit
Towards the top, the man helped me a bit with my excessive stuff around those rocks with the metal handles , as well as in some tricky narrow and steep passages.
There were picturesque rain pools in the bedrock. Brilliantly green lichen were colonizing the rocks, eventually making soil for pine trees and spruce. In my visit at La Motte, VT, I witnessed an impressive case of such rock colonization.
In my sandals in the woods
Where the rocky part started.
As the view opens up
The rain pools
Views from the tippy tops. It does get deep purple.
With S. and D.
Crowds and Cruise Ships
Then we arrived at where the buses and crowds were. In other words, where those who drove up to the top were sightseeing the peak. Here you could find super expensive “energy treats” in the souvenir shop, and all kinds of things and trinkets to show you were at the top without making any effort to get there. I ignored it all, trying to save money.
At this late point in the trip I felt safe about using more of my memory card, so I shot 360 degrees videos instead of stills. The views included the cruise boats anchored far below. Maybe these crowds originated in them. Looking from the top in all directions, it finally sank on me that Mountain Desert Island was indeed an “island”. The unclear part was still the “desert”.
Since I was driven up Mt. Washington there’s no place for any judgement on my part of the crowds around me, or for any false arrogance. Yet, doing it oneself makes all the difference in the world, and I was glad I had the wonderful couple for company.
I offered to give them a ride once we reached the bottom of the trail. They were parked in the campground itself and needed to get there from the road. I said it would take me a minute or so to move my stuff around the car. They seemed interested, but once we actually reached the bottom they decided to continue by foot. I finally understood – the full trail continued all the way to the campground itself, where the “official” head of the trail was located with the proper gate and trail name. That is why the trail continued on both sides of road 3, why there was no official parking and why the trail was not marked…
The Super Ecologial Campground
I slept well that night. It was tricky to bring the dishes to the special compost collector in the bathrooms, then go back to the site and wash them there, but these were the instructions. They made sense but were difficult to follow. Even more work than the usual dish washing ordeal. A nice woman at the bathroom had a collapsible bucket where she did some laundry, then folded it. She said you could use it for various things and that it can be found at camping stores. I boasted to everybody that I climbed the mountain. I felt so proud…
Cooking on the picnic table in the cold and dark was a challenge as usual, but the Kindle kept sustaining me spiritually as the food was cooking and the water boiling. Two layers were sufficient to keep me warm in the tent.
The next day was my farewell day to Acadia and to the camping trip. I did a last wonderful trek, circumnavigating Ealge Lake, and stopped at Bar Harbor before heading “home” to The Pond for the last leg of my trip.
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