Ingonish National Park and Cape Breton were so marvellous I did not have time to mourn leaving Newfoundland. The highlight was the empowering night walk, "Seeing in the Dark", where we sharpened hidden survival capacities. There is also a wonderful double beach - lake plus ocean right by the campground.
Up Cape Breton’s Eastern Coast
Eastern Cape Breton Red Rivers and Rouge Waves
Cape Breton’s East Coast
Coyotes? Not for me; Neil’s Harbor; Where the rouge waves lurk; Keltic lodge again – with music;
Coyotes? Not for me!
Following the glorious morning at Middle Head, I took to the road again in the afternoon. Driving up north along Cape Breton’s east coast, I tried to find the famous “Coastal Trail”. Unfortunately, all the roads leading to it from the highway were forested and had large signs warning about coyotes: if you see them try to back off, give them space, use an alarm devise. If the animal exhibits aggressive behavior, make yourself seem larger and noisier, throw sticks and rocks, and if necessary, fight back.
It was late and getting darker, precisely the time where jackals in Israel join in choruses as they prepare for the night’s hunting. I was alone, and the potential of fighting with coyotes on my way to the beach did not seem worth the trouble. Turning back on my tracks, I gave up on the coastal walk and instead, drove up north to Neil’s Harbor.
Neil’s Harbor
The lighthouse was surrounded by hundreds of seagulls. I captured them on camera flying against the setting sun, A small boat showed up and they all flew towards it.
The restaurant at the place seemed very appealing and had a good recommendation, but the place was packed. The waiter gave me a book of the Nova Scotia to-do list, including phone numbers of accommodations and restaurants. He was young, nice and friendly. The place felt homey and cozy. The lady running it was very forthcoming and local in the best sense of the word. I got to eat there later when I left Ingonish, and was not disappointed.
Where the Rouge Waves Lurk – Green Cove
On the way back I stopped at another site called “Green Cove”. It was a short sortie out of the car and over some rocks to viewpoints over the sea. The interesting thing there was the geology: gneiss and granites with penetrating dykes descending all the way into the water.
I was walking on the rocks enjoying myself, but around the site there were warning signs about rouge waves…
Keltic Lodge Again – With Music
At the end of the day, I went back to Atlantic Restaurant at Keltic Lodge, remembering the waiter’s invitation.
Keltic lodge, 10:50 pm
It was Celtic music for another 10 minutes before they closed. I had a small cocktail, enjoyed the music, nothing very special, but the singer was making an effort and it was pleasant. Then I received a message on my phone… Jim wrote that I needed to get back to Maine sooner than we thought. The guy at Hertz equivocated. I could not extend the contract from my location in Canada, plus the card insurance would not cover me unless I returned the car in time…
Bummer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, that piece of news came over me like a rogue wave indeed…
Understanding I’d need to do my journey in two loops, rather than one, I still kept to my plan and the next day climbed Mt. Franey!
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