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Up Cape Breton’s Eastern Coast

Up Cape Breton’s Eastern Coast

Eastern Cape Breton and Rouge Waves

Coyotes? Not for me!

Following the glorious morning at Middle Head, I took to the road again in the afternoon. Driving up north along Cape Breton’s east coast, I tried to find the famous “Coastal Trail”.  Unfortunately, all the roads leading to it from the highway were forested and had large signs warning about coyotes: if you see them try to back off, give them space, use an alarm devise. If the animal exhibits aggressive behavior, make yourself seem larger and noisier, throw sticks and rocks, and if necessary, fight back.

And its rivers run red. Cape Breton's east coast

Red river, Cape Breton's east coast

It was late and getting darker, precisely the time where jackals in Israel join in choruses as they prepare for the night’s hunting.  I was alone, and the potential of fighting with coyotes on my way to the beach did not seem worth the trouble. Turning back on my tracks, I gave up on the coastal walk and instead, drove up north to Neil’s Harbor.

Neil’s Harbor 

The lighthouse was surrounded by hundreds of seagulls. I captured them on camera flying against the setting sun, A small boat showed up and they all flew towards it.

The restaurant at the place seemed very appealing and had a good recommendation, but the place was packed. The waiter gave me a book of the Nova Scotia to-do list, including phone numbers of accommodations and restaurants. He was young, nice and friendly. The place felt homey and cozy. The lady running it was very forthcoming and local in the best sense of the word. I got to eat there later when I left Ingonish, and was not disappointed.

Neil's Harbor lighthouse, Cape Breton's east coast

Seagusll, Neil's Harbor, Cape Breton's east coast

Against a darkening sky, Neil's harbor, Cape Breton

Neil's Harbor lighthouse against a darkening sky, Cape Breton's east coast

On the lone rock, Neil's Harbor, Cape Breton

     On the rocks, Neil's Harbor, Cape Breton's east coast  Cormorants on rocks, Neil's Harbor, Cape Breton's east coast

Where the Rouge Waves Lurk – Green Cove 

On the way back I stopped at another site called “Green Cove”. It was a short sortie out of the car and over some rocks to viewpoints over the sea. The interesting thing there was the geology: gneiss and granites with penetrating dykes descending all the way into the water.

Gneiss and granites with penetrating dykes, Green Cove, Cape Breton's east coastI was walking on the rocks enjoying myself, but around the site there were warning signs about rouge waves

danger alert - rouge waves - Green Cove, Cape Breton's east coast

[ Extra large waves come in unexpectedly, Stay safe, Keep away from edge of headland. ] 

Keltic Lodge Again – With Music

At the end of the day, I went back to Atlantic Restaurant at Keltic Lodge, remembering the waiter’s invitation.

Celtic music at Atlantic Restuarnat,, Cape Breton

Keltic lodge, 10:50 pm

It was Celtic music for another 10 minutes before they closed. I had a small cocktail, enjoyed the music, nothing very special, but the singer was making an effort and it was pleasant. Then I received a message on my phone… Jim wrote that I needed to get back to Maine sooner than we thought. The guy at Hertz equivocated. I could not extend the contract from my location in Canada, plus the card insurance would not cover me unless I returned the car in time…


Well, that piece of news came over me like a rogue wave indeed…

Understanding I’d need to do my journey in two loops, rather than one, I still kept to my plan and the next day climbed Mt. Franey!

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